Rugby, Soccer and Zumba oh my!…muscles are sore

Saturday began with a scrum

And ended with lime and rum

Though Munster had lost

We began to defrost

With hopes of a Spring that would come

April was full of events: Joe and I went to a Munster Rugby match with our neighbors, which was followed by an evening of competitive beer pong. I joined some friends for the first National Zumbathon in Dublin, where we danced a Sunday afternoon away with hundreds of other Shakira wanna-be’s.  Joe represented his department in a students vs. staff soccer match at UL.  I finished the Great Limerick Run while passing cows, pubs and castles.

Now with regards to that rugby match, it wasn’t Herman Munster we were cheering for, although he would have made an excellent forward in my opinion, with those broad shoulders.  No, Munster is one of four Provinces in Ireland, and the one that encompasses our Southwest region, including Limerick. We played against Leinster, which is the Eastern Province- the big city team from Dublin. Then there is Ulster (Northern Ireland) and Connaught (Northwest Ireland). These provinces originated from dynastic families, long before the Normans invaded in 1169.  Maybe there was an Irish king named Herman Munster after all, who knows.

This week, we are preparing for some very important visitors-  friends are coming this weekend and Mom and Dad arrive just after that, yahoo!  I have removed all cobwebs and scrubbed the grout between the shower tiles. And Joe has been practicing driving with our friends- down the left lane and through round-abouts. Looks like May and June will be just as eventful. Sláinte! (pronounced “slawn che” -Irish Gaelic for “cheers!”)

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Taking my latte for a walk

Homesickness comes and it goes

Just as the Irish wind blows

Latte’s from Starbucks

Nirvana guitar plucks

And being with my sisters and bros

 One of the first things I noticed while settling into Irish life, other than the large amount of dog poo on sidewalks, was how pedestrians manage to stroll the streets without a Starbucks beverage in hand.  Where I come from, this is a rarity.   In Seattle, new mommies use one hand to push their baby stroller around Greenlake, while the other  holds a latte.  Best friends catch up on gossip while window shopping, using one hand to express emotion and the other, to embrace a mocha. Men and women in business suits seem to grip the espresso in their left hand much tighter than the briefcase in their right, while sprinting through intersections.  Dog walkers hold the leash over here, the carmel macchiato over there.  But in Ireland, not only are leashes uncommon, so are the to-go lattes.

I remember noticing a similar trend when I studied abroad in Florence.  But instead of Starbucks, Italian mommies, best friends, business folk and nuns strolled through cobblestone alley’s, passed by magnificent sculpture fountains- with a gelato cone in hand.  I found it comical to see a businessman all serious-looking in his suit, delicately finishing off a mango-gelato cone.  And quite amusing to pass by a group of nuns, prayer book in one hand, gelato in the other.  I’m sure the weather influences what treat one enjoys while out and about. Ice cream in Seattle would just be a ridiculous option for about 10 out of 12 months of the year.  Coffee suits a rainy climate much better.

So here I am, in the land of “sitting down and enjoying every sip of that cuppa joe (which would actually be tea) before hurrying off to whatever’s next on the agenda.” The last time I took a latte for a walk was in Seattle, before moving here.  I admit it: I don’t miss scurrying around with a beverage that I only half-enjoy.  It’s far more peaceful to sit and chat or read or do absolutely nothing while sipping away.  But I’m feeling a little homesick.  So today, a perfectly cloudy, windy Seattle-ish day, I walked to Delish and ordered a 12 oz latte….for take away.  I took my time walking home, enjoying the smell of the roasted coffee beans and feeling a connection to the familiar routines of a life we left behind in Seattle.  But I also began to miss friends. Family. Greenlake. All of those things that just “go with a latte.”  So by the time I arrived back at our apartment, I decided it would be best to wait until I visit Seattle this summer, to take any future lattes out for a walk.

seattle

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Adare you to read this

A quaint, tidy town called Adare

Lies just outside Limerick, where

Shoe boutiques hatched,

And roofs are thatched;

The Smurfs would have loved it there.

While volunteering as a teacher’s assistant in an art class at our local care centre, I have been learning a lot about Irish culture, geography and history from a few deep-rooted apprentices.  (Although, they forgot to inform me that the supermarket booze isle would be barricaded on Good Friday and I’d have to wait until Saturday to purchase my Easter wine.)  Last week, the ladies assured me that Ireland is experiencing an exceptionally long winter.  They seem like honest women, and since they’ve lived on this isle for 80-some years, I suppose I should take their word for it.  It’s April 1st, and I am not fooling when I tell you that it is so cold the leaves even look uncomfortable as they shiver in the wind.  My winter sweaters are loving all the attention,  but my mascara has been feeling neglected because the minute I step outside into the freezing wind, my eyes water and makeup seems to run for warmer weather.  Sometimes I close my eyes and imagine that I’m laying on a warm beach just to relax cold, tight muscles.  If the sun does decide to play peek-a-boo, Joe will stop whatever he’s doing to catch it’s rays, which sometimes last up to four whole minutes.  Last winter, I had decided that Seattlites are the world’s most resilient people, thriving through months of gray clouds, rain, and wind.  But they are soon to be defeated for that title, by the Irish.

So Joe and I bundled up on Saturday and embarked on a short bus ride heading west from Limerick to a town named Adare.  On the way, I sat next to a County Clare native who has travelled all over the world- waterskiing in Baton Rouge, sunbathing in Australia, hiking in Thailand, wine tasting in South Africa and exploring European countries.  We discussed the advantage that Europeans have when it comes to traveling: within a couple of hours, you will find yourself in a different country, a completely new culture, and for a fair price too.  As the bus pulled into Adare, the view out the window reminded me of the Smurf village from the cartoon show I used to watch as a kid on Saturday mornings, over a bowl of Lucky Charms:  small, colorful cottages with thatched roofs adorned with neatly arranged flower beds and stonework- a pretty, orderly row on Main Street, surrounded by woodland and castles.  We walked up Main Street to find the most beautiful golf course I’ve ever seen, an Augustinian Priory dating back to 1315, and the Desmond Castle situated just beyond the River Maigue.  Aside from being known for its picturesque cottages, churches, castles, and craft shops, Adare boasts some fantastic restaurants and cafes.  So we shared southern fried chicken at Aunty Lena’s while Man U played Sunderland on the big screen.  Joe was patient with me during antiquing-hour as we popped in and out of thatched roof craft shops and boutiques.  I tried on some of those cool hats Kate Middleton wears and decided the one with the big turquoise flower suited me best.  Until I checked out the price tag.  Several shops flaunted shelves lined with the most artistic shoes.  This was definitely no TK Max. (Yes, TJ Maxx, here in Ireland, is TK Maxx.)

It didn’t take long to soak in Adare, so we caught a bus back to Limerick that evening.  Tightening our scarves as we strolled down O’Connell street on our way to meet a friend, we noticed a line emerging from the Leonidas Chocolate Shop.  Joe and I “queued up” and he bought me a chocolate bunny for Easter.  Most people were going for the traditional chocolate eggs , but we aren’t most people.  Our friend Hama joined us at Tom Collins pub, and the next day he came over for Easter dinner.  He and Joe have some very similar stories about Africa, growing up in neighboring countries, and they’re both working on their PhD’s at UL.  After stew, hot cross buns, carrot cake, and plenty of laughter, the gray skies and chilly wind outside didn’t matter.  Our home felt as warm as could be.  And it wasn’t because of the wool sweater I was wearing…

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Hoppy St. Paddy’s Day

That leprechaun stole my euro!

And I need it to buy this beer, Oh

we’ll chase him down 

The streets in town,

This weather must be sub-zero!

It’s the Friday before St. Patrick’s Day.  I log onto Facebook, and find opinions of our newly elected Pope Francis, an “Ultimate Goat Edition Supercut” video, and a tempting photo of lemon tarts from the Sage Cafe.  Dispersed among the randomness lies excitement for my favorite holiday, St. Patrick’s Day:  Friends share recipes for green chocolate mint brownies.  Mothers post photos of their children’s shamrock art.  Bar owners advertise their annual celebrations and green beer.  Scrolling along, I notice that one of my Irish friends is heading to Belfast for the weekend’s festivities.

I am immediately confused.  I thought Northern Ireland is predominantly Protestant while the Republic of Ireland is mainly Catholic.  So why would my friends go North to celebrate this Catholic saint’s feast day?  Clearly, it is time for me to look into the whole Protestant/Catholic issue.  Don’t judge me- I never learned this growing up in the US; I was busy coloring pictures of leprechauns and forming shamrocks out of clay.  I seriously hope history lessons have improved since I was a kid.

After some research, here is what I have finally come to understand:  Once upon a time (in the 1800′s), the Acts of Union joined Ireland with Great Britain, as the “United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.”  But many Irish nationalists did not support the union and for years to follow, they would fight for their independence. There have been many “uprisings” in this country, led by Irish Republicans (or nationalists) who were against British rule over their land.  For instance, in the early 1900′s, there was the Easter Rising.  For six days during Easter week of 1916, a time when Britain was heavily involved in World War II, Irish Republicans sought to put an end to British rule and form their own Irish Republic.  This took place mainly in Dublin, where by the end of the week, the Rising was put to a stop and its leaders were executed.  Though that story, like many, has an unfortunate ending, it was significant because it ignited political discussion around Ireland’s independence.  With all of this heightened awareness, support in favor of Ireland’s independence increased, and Irish folks won a majority of the seats in an election for the British parliament in 1918.  The following year, they met to establish the Irish Republic.  Well, that didn’t go over very well- the British government and Irish Unionists refused to accept the new nation, and this resulted in the Irish War of Independence.  By the end of this two-and-a-half year long war, both sides agreed to a truce.  Their discussions that followed led to the Anglo Irish Treaty which finally ended British rule in the Republic of Ireland.  However, six counties wanted to remain loyal to Great Britain, so they formed Northern Ireland.  And everyone lived happily ever after.  The end.

Actually, that isn’t true.  There’s much more to this story…  Within those six counties of Northern Ireland, the majority of its residents were Protestant Unionist, but there also lived some Catholic Nationalists too.  I’m sure you can imagine how that went over.  Jumping over a few years, and through several arguments, a time period known as “The Troubles” began in the 60′s.  The three decades to follow are far more complex than I can write about here, but in short, violence touched the lives of those living in Northern Ireland and its surroundings- over the issue of discrimination against minority Catholic nationalists (who wanted one Ireland), by the Protestant unionists (who wished to remain united with Britain).  By the late 90′s a peace process began, and in 1998, the Good Friday Agreement was signed, which basically says that Northern Ireland would remain a part of the United Kingdom unless a majority voted otherwise.  As you can imagine, this is still a touchy subject, and sporadic violence still exists.

Many foreigners come to Ireland without a clue about the heartache this country has endured.  Although we Americans are often stereotyped as ignorant, I think a more appropriate term might be “unaware.”  Here’s a prime example: In the States, it is common to order one of two drinks at an Irish pub: either an Irish Car Bomb (Irish Cream and Whisky dropped from a shot glass into a pint of Guinness, and chugged quickly before it curdles) or a Black and Tan (a pint of half Guinness and half pale ale).  Here is why this is just wrong:  Six years ago, when I visited Dublin on a long weekend vacation from Barcelona, I excitedly ordered “Two Irish Car Bombs please!” from the bartender- who looked at me, half-confused and half-offended, responding, “Do you mean a 911?”  Car bombings took place in abundance during The Troubles, and here I am, asking for one in a pint glass!  Totally embarrassed, I quickly learned my lesson.  I’ve been reluctant to order “Irish Car Bombs” since, but continued to ask for “Black and Tans.”  Until I recently discovered what that refers to: During the Irish War of Independence, the Black and Tans were British men who joined the IRC (Royal Irish Constabulary) to fight against the IRA (Irish Republican Army).  The name comes from their khaki uniforms.  But their reputation is a violent one, as they attacked Irish civilians in revenge for the IRA’s actions during the war.   Humbled, I think I’ll stick with a simple Guinness from now on.

So where on earth does St. Patrick fit in?  Nearly everywhere actually, thanks to commercialism!  St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated all over the world: the Republic of Ireland, Northern Ireland, Britain, the United States, Canada, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia; I’ve also celebrated till I was nearly green in the face, when I lived in Spain. It’s all about the beer, shamrock bingy-bonger headbands, beer, traditional Irish music and dance, beer, leprechauns, green attire, and mainly, beer.  It’s everywhere.

But it also must be about St. Patrick himself, right?  I found out that it’s actually up for debate whether or not he was Roman Catholic.  Catholics and Protestants each want to claim St. Patrick for their team, but all that is certain is that he was a Christian Missionary.  Interestingly, Protestantism didn’t exist until after the Reformation anyway, and that occurred after St. Patrick’s time.  Some say he followed Celtic Christianity.  But what we know for sure is that he was born in Britain, was captured and taken as a slave to Ireland when he was 16 years old, and he lived there working as a shepherd, for six years.  He wrote that his faith grew in captivity, that he prayed every day.  He eventually escaped and made it back to his home.  There, he entered the religious life and eventually returned to Ireland where he became a Bishop, and is said to have brought Christianity to Ireland.  Some say he used shamrocks to explain the three parts of the Holy Trinity: the Father, Son and the Holy Spirit.  He died on March 17th, and is apparently buried in a Cathedral in County Down, Northern Ireland.  That Cathedral just happens to be part of the Church of Ireland, which may be referred to as Protestant.

So yes, St. Patrick may be a Catholic saint.  And yes, his body may be buried in a Protestant church.  And controversy may continue to exist over religion and politics here in Ireland.  But regardless, St. Patrick is the patron saint of all of Ireland and its people.  Maybe this day of parades and pints is more about unity than anything else.  Well that, and Guinness, shamrock headbands, and leprechauns.

Now here we are- it’s March 17th, my favorite day of the year.  Joe and I get our green on and catch the last half of the parade downtown.  After the final fire truck goes by, we partake in the most traditional of traditions and order doner kebabs at a Turkish hole-in-the-wall.  Roaming amidst Limerick’s buzz, we find stools near a fireplace in Cobblestone Joe’s Pub.  Rugby on the big screen, a lively Irish folk band on stage, a roaring fire, pints galore, and a text from a friend saying, “What’s d craic like in town?”  Yep, this is a full Irish St. Patrick’s Day!

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A Globetrotting State of Mind

For miles and miles we run

Through rain, snow, wind and sun

Possibly crazy

In no way lazy

Thinking that chafing is fun

About a month ago, as we were walking down a road in Galway, Joe looked ahead saying “There’s a brother.” And as we passed by, he gave Joe “The Nod.”  For those of you who don’t know what I’m talking about, it is a very slight, swift lift and lowering of the head while maintaining eye contact, like the tipping of a hat without any hand gestures. The gentleman did not give me a nod, only Joe.  This is because it means “Hey, we seem to be rare around here, my people understand your people, and perhaps we have overcome an obstacle and intend to keep on at it.”  Of course this led to a discussion about why white people don’t give each other a head nod, but then I realized, runners do something very similar.  No matter your race, if you are out running and pass by another person who is too, it is likely that you would give each other a “Runner’s Wave,” which is a lackadaisical lift of the forefinger, middle finger and thumb as the arm raises in its natural stride, while maintaining eye contact.  I believe this communicates the same message as “The Nod”: “Hey, we seem to be rare around here, my people understand your people, and perhaps we have overcome an obstacle and intend to keep on at it.”

Oprah has been quoted saying, “Running is the greatest metaphor for life because you get out of it what you put into it.”  I agree with her statement on many levels and believe that running teaches life lessons in a sneaky way.  While it’s true that dedicated training increases speed and endurance, as in life, it’s not always that simple.  First of all, you have the weather.  Yesterday I went for a 5 mile loop, and with the wind at my back the first half, I thought, “Look at me go! Only three weeks of training and I already feel this strong!  Marathon here I come!”  Only to reach the half-way mark where the wind was suddenly jarring at my face, and that strong feeling was replaced by, “Holy crap, my legs feel like bricks! I think I’ve only taken three steps in the last minute. How can I possibly finish a half-marathon?” As in life, sometimes nature works for you, and other times against you- I suppose that’s the lesson, it’s up to me to decide how I’m going to respond.  Well, I quickly had to change my thought process, and power through the last two miles.  What else was I supposed to do, just stop and stand there getting knocked around by the wind?  Or allow myself to feel miserable the entire way back and just be okay with it?  No thanks!  Running teaches attitude adjustment.

Then you have injuries.  Just when training is going swimmingly, as you start to increase miles and run a little faster without having to stop quite so often, an odd sensation emerges from your heel, hip, ankle, shin, back, toe, arch, calf, hamstring, you name it! Did you know that runners are more prone to injury than football players?  After years of running, I certainly believe it.  I’ve experienced stress fractures, shin splints, calf strains, hip strains, iliotibial band syndrome, chondromalacia patellae, and most recently plantar fasciitis.  And every time, it was because I did not listen to my body.  Most recently, I ignored pain in my heel as I was confidently striding on a treadmill kicking the man’s butt next to me, and ended up having to drop out of a marathon, and spend the following year mending my foot.  I grew antsy and depressed having to give up my goal and focus on icing and elevating instead.  Now, when I’m running and feel a strange twinge, I stop and stretch right away, and take a few days to rest.  Running teaches you to listen to and take care of yourself.  And it teaches patience.

Besides the weather and injuries, there are also potholes, puddles, dogs, dog poop, cars, stalkers, sandwiches and powdered donuts.  Each step must be carefully taken in order to avoid such catastrophes, and the only way to do that is to remain in the moment.   As any runner would tell you, this can be challenging because it’s such a wonderful time to “space out” or let go of any nagging thoughts (we’ll get to that lesson in a minute).  But a simple run can be affected by many different external factors if one is not attentive.  You might step in dog poop, making for a stinky run, or a puddle, adding extra unwanted pounds wet shoes tend to warrant.   While cars do not care about runners, dogs and stalkers certainly do.  During high school cross-country practice, my teammate was chased by a dog which finally bit a half-inch into the heel of her shoe.  Another, while running alone, noticed she was being followed by a creeper in his slow-moving beater, until she sprinted to a gas station and called the police.  I once had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich thrown at me from an apartment window as I ran by, and my sister Gina’s friend had a powdered donut chucked in her face as she was running through an intersection.  Running teaches the practice of living in the present moment.  Actually, it demands it.

One particular moment that I was definitely “living in” occurred during a district-qualifying track meet.  Before the race, I received some sound advice to run the first lap with my elbows out, not to intentionally knock-out my competition, but to protect myself against the herd, especially as we rounded the corners.  Well, I did that, establishing my position among the group, and set a personal record in the 3200.  Only to be approached by my coach minutes later who told me I had been disqualified for elbowing a fellow runner on the first lap.  My senior year of track was done-zo.  I felt bummed for a while, and ever since have been much more careful about throwing elbows.  Running teaches acceptance of mistakes, and to learn from them.

Accepting weirdness also comes with running.  Commonly found in abundance at cross-country meets or road-race finish lines, this “weirdness” obviously stands out in the “normal” everyday world.  I’m talking neon hexagon-patterned short shorts, men attaching bandaids over their nipples that have been bleeding through cotton t-shirts, folks bent over rubbing vaseline atop the chafed skin of their inner-thighs, a herd of race finishers roaming aimlessly with dazed eyes while wrapped in what appears to be a large amount of foil (this is actually a space blanket).  At night, as you drive home through your neighborhood you might spot something off the side of the road wearing a yellow reflective vest bent over grabbing onto its ankles: runner.  In the grocery checkout line you may overhear a conversation that goes: “Oh yeah, on Saturday I’m planning a nice long fartlek” (a workout involving continuous speed intervals): runner.  Running teaches respect and appreciation for individuality (weirdness).

Running can be a fabulous way to see a new place, or to see an old place in a new way.  When traveling, I always pack my runners because there are so many interesting things about a town or area, that I otherwise wouldn’t notice from a vehicle’s window.  In Spain, I’d set out with my buddy Ellie as we synchronized our steps along the beach, smelling delicious tapas being served, listening to families laughing and splashing in the waves, and feeling the hot sun on our skin.  While trail running in Portland, Joe and I found a place called “Cartlandia,” an outdoor food court serving up the most delicious varieties of cuisine from around the world.  Back in Seattle, my favorite place to run was Greenlake, and even though I’d run countless laps around that lake, there was always something new to find: a family of turtles, an old friend, leaves that had changed color, a crew race, a woman pushing her bulldog in a baby jogger.  Here in Limerick I’ve discovered an abandoned stone fortress, new restaurants, where the dry cleaners is, tennis courts, neighborhoods, a perfect spot to stretch next to a big open field, tulips blooming on the University campus.  Running teaches discovery of the new and exploration of the ordinary.

Besides getting to know territory, running is also a way to get to know people.  On a run, you can really develop a bond with someone, so you’ll want to carefully choose your running buddy.  You wouldn’t want to run six miles up hill in the wind with someone who’s going to complain about it the whole time, would you?  Or with someone who’d keep a shoulder’s distance in front of you the entire way? (I broke up with a boyfriend over this years ago. It told me all I needed to know about what our future was going to be like, the fact that he had to win our leisurely runs.)  My favorite running buddy is my brother, Paul, because he is exceptionally talented at noticing interesting things along the way, cracking jokes, and maintaining a positive attitude.  One summer, we were near delirium while running on a trail in the mountains of the Okanagon county in Washington State, and as I was trying to distract myself from the chafe occurring on my upper legs, I saw a cow and said, “I wonder if cows get chafe?”  In less than half a second, Paul responded, “There once was a cow named Hank. He had chafe. It was a Hankcowchafe.”  You might find that a bit farfetched (handkerchief, hankcowchafe, whatever), but after several miles on a hot day in the mountains, it cracked me up.  Running teaches the importance of carefully choosing one’s company.

Though it may be more entertaining to stride with a partner, solo runs offer an opportunity for reflection.  Here’s a scenario: I leave our apartment and start out running alongside a strip-mall.  As I glance at my reflection in the shop windows, and at my shadow right there next to me, I have two options: I can either critique my form, my weight, my speed- or I can acknowledge that person for their dedication, determination and spirit.  Choosing the later, I am practicing positive thinking.  Leaving the strip mall, I am now on a gravel trail surrounded by green.  I think of family.  Of friends.  Of my marriage.  Of my dreams.  And I pray, “Thank you, God, for all you have given me- all of the people, experiences, talents you’ve blessed me with.  Please show me in some way where to go from here, what to do, how to live.  Please take care of my husband, my parents and family, all of my friends, and keep them happy.  Thanks for listening.”  As the trail ends, I am back on a sidewalk rounding the block and feel as though I’m in some sort of trance.  A common phrase among runners is: “LSD, the high for me!” No connection to the drug, it stands for “Long Slow Distance” which results in “runner’s high.”  The bright green trees, the sound of a lawnmower and children playing at recess, the smell of freshly cut grass, the taste of crisp air, and the feeling of my breath as it’s synchronized with each step.  Meditation has lead to that euphoric state, runner’s high.   A happy feeling from head to toe due to being fully conscious and present, and scientifically, from releasing endorphins.  Approaching the final stretch, I let out one last burst of energy and gradually slow to a walk, feeling purposeful, accomplished, humbled, and just plain content.  Running teaches the power of positive thought, prayer and meditation.

Recently, an article was published on ESPN’s website about a man named Fauja Singh.  At age 89, he ran his first marathon.  He is now 101 and still running.  Though it’s undeniable that this man must have set a Guinness World Record or two, it cannot be proven without a valid birth certificate. Fauja was born in a village in India in 1911, and as with my own husband, who was born in a village called Tamasane, in Botswana- birth certificates were not a common practice.  No matter the Guinness drama, running has saved Fauja’s life.  A few years ago, he witnessed the death of his son and asked, “Why, God? Why him? Why not me?”  As he became depressed, the villagers of India worried about him and eventually reached out to his children living in London, who insisted he move there to live with them.  But the depression had somehow crammed itself in Fauja’s suitcase and planned to remain with him in London.  So, he joined a group of Punjab runners, expats living in London.  He found peace in running, and soon became a public figure.  Whether or not Fauja’s name appears in the Guinness Book of World Records, he is enjoying the benefits of running while shuffling laps around a park near his home.  And so, running teaches the most important lesson of all: It is never too late to take charge of one’s own life.

I suppose that’s my cue.  Time to power down the laptop, lace up the old Asics and head out the door, ta-ta!

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Finding Myself in WEreland

Her bachelorette days expired

As she vowed to the man she admired

They’d stay together

Through all kinds of weather

And accept how the other was wired

Here I am, posted up in a laid-back cafe in Limerick, thinking about this whole “getting married and moving to Ireland” thing we’ve done. It’s been three months since we landed on the Isle of Saints and Scholars. (You realize that since Joe’s attending UL, that would make me the Saint, right?) So many changes to adjust to. New jobs, friends, pace of life, apartment, currency, measurement system, side of the road to drive down.  Can openers work differently. Cilantro is called coriander. Dogs take themselves for walks.  One thing I’m not having to adjust to is the weather- it rains most of the time, just like it does in the Emerald City.

Leaping to Ireland following our wedding has been an incredibly satisfying experience. With a new country to explore and free time to spend with each other, it’s like an extended-honeymoon! And the challenges we face while learning to adjust to all of it brings us closer.  Oh, I’ve had my homesick moments- because the bathroom faucets disperse hot and cold water separately, and all I wanted to do was wash my face without having to strategically cup cold, then some hot, water to get the right combination without burning myself.  Or because I miss the comfort of being with family and friends who know the real me- the woman who quotes Disney movies and SNL skits on a regular basis, pours everything into teaching and family, runs multiple laps around Greenlake, and occasionally eats popcorn for dinner.  Luckily, Joe is here to share in the discomfort, and reminds me to enjoy the newness.

Back when we were engaged, I learned the meaning of a paradox: (No, I didn’t become so stressed-out from planning the wedding that it took two doctors to cure me…ahaha)  A paradox is a claim that two apparently contradictory ideas are true. In the words of Irish poet Oscar Wilde, “In this world there are only two tragedies. One is not getting what one wants, and the other is getting it.” As I was preparing to let go of single-hood and merge my life with Joe’s, I kept this in mind and found it helpful.  Because the truth is, being a 30 year old independent woman, the thought of giving up certain freedoms I had been accustomed to (shopping for useless crap and not having to explain any of it, sprawling out over the entire mattress at night) left me feeling nostalgic. Understanding life’s paradox allowed me to feel sad about leaving my single life behind, and at the same time happy that I would get to spend my future life with Joe- and to let it be. Although those feelings may contradict themselves, they are both true. This makes me wonder about the saying, ”The grass is always greener on the other side.”  I mean, I realize there are different shades of green, but I doubt any of them are “greener” than the others anyway. That said, I don’t think the grass could be much greener than it is right here in Ireland…

So now that I’ve welcomed this paradox-mentality, I understand that I am half of a marriage, and at the exact same time, my whole individual self.  Here I am in Ireland, supporting my husband’s PhD studies, career-free with an open road in front of me. What the heck am I supposed to do?  (I think of Julia Child, when she and her husband Paul moved to France, saying in her squirrelly voice, “But what will I do?”)  Another paradox presents itself: While I enjoy spending time more freely without being attached to a career, I also feel antsy not having a purpose that is defined by my job.  Last year, a colleague of mine kindly warned me that it may be disorienting to leave the teaching profession because in so many ways, it defines who were are. She is so right, it is disorienting. And it is also freeing. I loved being a Special-Education Kindergarten teacher; I don’t regret the last six years of it one bit and may return to it someday. But for now, I am fortunate to have this time to re-gain energy and enthusiasm, which I was quickly becoming drained of due to the demands of the job (if you don’t know what I’m talking about, just go volunteer on a Kindergarten field trip and hang out with the teacher until she goes home that evening, you’ll get it).  Anyway, I have come to understand that my purpose is actually to chill out and experience more joy each day.  Julia Child found joy in French cooking.  I am finding joy in Irish writing, among other things…

My greatest accomplishment these past few months has been re-learning how to relax, unwind, rest, take it easy, slow down, let go, kick back, chill out.  Like sleep until 11, go for coffee and chat the afternoon away, read novels, swim laps without it being a workout, experiment in the kitchen, sip tea and eat cheesecake savoring every bite, sit on park bench just to feel the sun and listen to the birds, practice yoga in the middle of the living room when the mood strikes, go for evening walks- and do all of those things without feeling guilty that I’m not working my butt off to accomplish something or check an item off a list.  I am beginning to notice the benefits of slowing down and welcoming life’s wonders, i.e. emotional stability and supple neck muscles.  And since I embrace this paradoxical life full of relaxation and at the same time, productivity- I’ve begun teaching private English lessons, taught my first Zumba class, and will be volunteering at a care center. For much of January, you’d have found me perched at a PC in the UL library working on that Pro-Teach Portfolio which was finally submitted! I registered and am training for the Great Limerick Run, a half-marathon that will pass through Limerick City on May 5th.  And I am writing- working on that children’s book that took a line on my list of New Year’s Resolutions.

Fortunately, I chose to marry someone who understands life’s paradox(en?) probably better than I do. While he thoroughly enjoys my home-cooked dinners, Joe is my biggest supporter in discovering what it is I truly enjoy doing.  He also inspires me as he quite naturally balances doing things for me, and for himself too.  While I know that he expects both of us to be active in our marriage together: managing finances, planning travel, calling out at each other to avoid dog poop on the sidewalk- he also encourages me to lead the life I believe I am called to live. I realize more every day, that I did a fine job choosing a companion.  I adore waking up to him each morning, and at the same time, I dislike that he takes up more than his half of the damn mattress.  Oh well, life’s a paradox. And I am living in WEreland!

Destination: Wereland

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Cathair na Gaillimhe (City of Galway)

Wind on this February day

Could lift the snuggest toupee

We feel we must

Follow its gust

To the nightlife that calls from Galway

We’ve visited the three largest cities of Ireland already; time to see the fourth- Galway!  The sun decided to come out and grace us with its presence last weekend as we made a quick bus ride north.  First stop was a cafe for some tea with toast & eggs, and a tourist map.  What impressed me so much about the city, other than the fact that a large amount of its local population still speaks Irish Gaelic, was how easily accessible it was to see everything on foot: from John F. Kennedy Memorial Park to the sights of Shop Street, to the Spanish Arch, to the Claddagh, to Salthill and our B & B…and all of the delights in between.

If you’re wondering why there is a park named after my highschool alma mater in Ireland, this is because JFK was the first American President of Irish Catholic descent.  He visited Galway in 1963, just 5 weeks before his assassination, saying it was “the best four days of my life.”  He must have felt that warm connection I continue to appreciate as I explore this land of my ancestry.  A few weeks ago, Joe and I were invited to dinner by a gentleman he’d met at UL.  Having an Irish mother and a father from Zimbabwe, he cooked us oxtail (brilliant), as he and Joe connected over their experiences growing up in neighboring countries.  Another lad who joined us, from Limerick, shared a fun fact at one point in the conversation:  It is (or at least was) common to find two portraits in Irish homes: one of the Pope, and next to it, one of President Kennedy.  If that doesn’t tell you how much this country is influenced by Catholicism, the fact that I just received an email Groupon for a “Communion or Confirmation Photoshoot” should.

Just beyond JFK Memorial Park, or Eyre Square, lies Shop Street.  Lined with souvenir shops, street performers and colorful pubs and restaurants, Joe and I ducked into “Hearts of Galway,” a jewelry shop, to look at claddagh rings. I had purchased one last time I was in Ireland six years ago, but somehow lost it.  We entered a contest to win me a brand new gold claddagh ring.  Twice.  This ring dates back to the 17th century, and originated in the Irish fishing village of Claddagh, located just outside Galway’s city walls.  It involves two hands holding a heart with a crown on it: the hands represent friendship, the heart love, and the crown loyalty.  They are commonly used as engagement/wedding rings and are often handed down from the mother or grandmother.  Depending on how you wear it (right hand, left hand, heart facing out, heart facing in), the ring indicates your status: single, in a relationship, engaged, married.  Before I sadly lost mine, I enjoyed being able to switch to the left hand, heart in, if a weirdo was trying to talk to me at a bar.  I also once wrote on a napkin for a cute waiter who was interested in my ring (this is long before Joe, by the way!) to “give me a claddagh sometime” with my phone number.  Yeah, he never did.  Which is just fine because now I’m here in Galway with my soulmate bidding for free jewelry- hope I win!

Shop Street turns into Quay Street which ends at the Spanish Arch.  This is also where the River Corrib opens out into Galway Bay.  We stopped to let the sunshine warm our faces and listen to the river rush by.  It was here that Spanish traders unloaded their ships back in the day.  Here’s the deal: in 1396, Galway gained a Royal Charter and was controlled by 14 English-merchant families known as the Tribes of Galway (one of those being the Lynch tribe, which Joe’s Grandpa descended from).  The old-English tribes wouldn’t allow Gaelic people into the city (I forgive you, Grandpa!) and needless to say, the relationship between the two groups was not a friendly one.  During the Middle Ages, Galway was stuck between a rock and a hard place (maybe that’s why Gaillimh (Galway) translates to “stoney” as in “stoney river”). Its citizens, being caught between Catholic rebels (Confederates) and English military, chose to support the Confederate side since most of them were Catholic.  However, English Parliamentarian forces conquered Ireland in 1652 and Galway was forced to surrender to a Cromwellian way of life.  This dude, Cromwell, is still strongly disliked in the Republic of Ireland- Catholics were expelled from the city; plague and famine followed.  Since no Irish Catholic merchants were allowed to live in Galway as it was confined to Protestants, trade declined and the once busy harbor fell to despair.  Then a few years later, the city found itself involved in some more Royal drama…

In 1688, the Catholic King of England, James II, had his throne-age replaced by his Protestant daughter and her husband.  Jealous James wanted his throne back, so having the support of Irish Catholics, he challenged his son-in-law in the Battle of the Boyne, by the River Boyne on Ireland’s east coast. Protestants won and James packed his sailboat and took off for France. For the next 300 years, Protestants began to take power over Ireland and as trade flourished on the east coast, Galway weakened, unable to compete.  Oh, and then the Great Famine happened.  So basically, this city has had it’s share of heartache!  In time, the economy regained strength- a University was built, which helped.  Now, you probably wouldn’t recognize all of the blood sweat and tears that were once shed on Galway’s streets and shores; the city appears to be thriving, continuing to evolve.

Gazing upon the Spanish Arch, I wonder about the lyrics of the song Galway Girl:

And I ask you friends, what’s a fella to do? 
Because her hair was black and her eyes were blue
So I took her hand, and I gave her a twirl
And I lost my heart to a Galway Girl

I just wonder if the black hair came from Spanish genes and the blue eyes, from Celtic ones.  Maybe Joe and I aren’t the first inter-cultural couple to be embracing on the shores of the Corrib.  From what I understand, the Spanish helped the Irish defend their independence from the English crown.  And finding land in on Galway’s shores after a storm at sea, some decided to stay and call it their new home. Maybe this is how a Galway Girl came to be.  And who knows, maybe one day there will be a Limerick Lass, with blue eyes and a fro.

After sunbathing in our sweaters and imagining what that fool Cromwell might have looked like, we mustered up our energy to cross over the River Corrib and into the Claddagh.  Sailboats and a few hookers rest on its shores.  Oh, you thought I meant hookers.  No, these ones do not wear go go boots, although I’m sure they would’ve come in handy in the rain.  Galway hookers are traditional wooden sailing boats with black hulls and rust colored sails.  We continued on towards Salthill, a seaside resort area, and found our Bed & Breakfast at Sunrise Lodge waiting for us.  The couple who live there were getting ready to leave for a wedding, and the guy cracked me up- he was so nice that it was funny.  Like he’d be talking to me all concerned about how our trip from Limerick was, and then he’d jump up shouting “Oh! I’m sorry, I didn’t realize I’d had my back to your husband! Sorry!….”  The extremely tall, sweet man lead us to our immaculate, ocean-view bedroom and headed off for the wedding.  Seriously, how is this not still a honeymoon?

After resting and enjoying some tea, we decided to take a walk on the beach.  The sun was setting, the birds were chirping, the locals were strolling, the wind was blowing, the water was glistening…and Joe was getting totally annoyed with my photoshoot obsession.  But he managed to survive and we headed back into town for some fish & chips.  It was not at all like the three-peice Ivar’s basket I was expecting.  One whole plate of chips and one whole beer-battered fish fillet.  Yum!  (I still love you, Ivar.)  We walked Shop Street enjoying a late-night harp performance and a vision of men dressed as nuns drinking pints on the street corner.  A friend of mine told me to check out a pub called, from what I remembered, the Russian Crow.  Turns out, it is called the Roisin Dove.  Right.  Well, we didn’t quite make it there, but Joe and I enjoyed some Bulmer’s cider at Monroe’s instead.

Sunday morning, we were excited to get downstairs- Joe for the full Irish breakfast, and I to see the funny tall Irishman again.   He told us all about fishing around Galway in his cartoon-character style, and invited us back sometime, which I think should definitely happen.  Joe and I walked along River Corrib and ended up at the Galway Cathedral.  We stayed there for almost two hours just soaking it all in.  One of the readings went, “Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast, it is not proud. It does not dishonor others, it is not self-seeking, it is not easily angered, it keeps no record of wrongs. Love does not delight in evil but rejoices with the truth. It always protects, always trusts, always hopes, always perseveres.”  We didn’t choose this one to be read at our wedding because it’s so common, and we wanted one that really meant something to us.  But hearing it read, I realize- although common, we could never be reminded of its words enough.  The priest talked about faith.  He said, “Faith is seeing life as a gift.”  I immediately think of my mom, for who this seems to come so naturally.  She can acknowledge the negative but see the positive in any situation.  I remember crying as a teenager after some girls at basketball practice made fun of my Lion King cut-off T-shirt. Devastating, I know.  She listened and told me that if my Lion King shirt made me happy, to go ahead and wear it and not worry what they thought of it…that God doesn’t mind what kind of a shirt I wear, but cares what kind of a person I am- and that I was a kind girl and that’s all that mattered.   I wonder if Irish merchant’s mothers told their children similar lines as they complained of Parliamentarian forces who were dissing their religion.  She and my dad have been married almost 55 years and have been through many of life’s ups and downs together.  Joe and I hope to have as much faith as they’ve had for so many years.  It appears to be true that seeing life as a gift, might be the secret.

As we left the Cathedral and stepped out into the gift of pouring rain, we made a few more stops: Lynch’s castle, which is now a bank but still a lovely structure, and a souvenir shop for postcards.  With the last 16 euro we’d taken out for the weekend, a pizza was devoured and we were on our way back home, to Limerick.  Slán go fóill… (Goodbye for now…)

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